It can be challenging to order the right amount of tiles for a project because there may be difficult cuts that lead to breakages or tiles that are not suitable for use. As a general rule, it is recommended to order 10% extra for cutting and waste. However, for smaller areas with large tiles, the wastage can be higher than 10%. To ensure that you have enough tiles for your project, it can be helpful to draw out the space and calculate the exact number of tiles needed, then add 10% for cutting and waste. If you would like help estimating the number of tiles needed, you can talk to your installer or one of our team members. Please note that these are only estimates and we cannot be held responsible for over- or under-ordering due to circumstances that may arise during installation.

Proper planning is essential when starting a tiling project. It is important to consider all the necessary products for substrate preparation, including underfloor heating, uncoupling membranes, adhesive, profiles, tiles, grout, silicone, and sealants if needed. Our team is able to provide expert advice and guidance for all types of installations, and with our wide range of installation products, we can help you achieve a successful installation from start to finish.

Yes. All of our floor-grade tiles, including porcelain and natural stone, are suitable for use with underfloor heating systems, whether they are wet or electric. We recommend that all underfloor heating systems be installed by a professional electrician and be covered with a self-levelling compound before installing the tiles.

When installing tiles, the thickness and finish of the tiles should be chosen based on the type of substrate they will be laid on. For concrete bases, tiles with a thickness of 6-10mm are sufficient because the concrete base provides the necessary strength. On the other hand, a sand and mortar substrate requires a thicker tile, such as a 20mm porcelain, for increased strength and stability. To ensure safety, tiles used in outdoor areas with the potential for water or other hazards should have a high slip resistance rating, such as an R11 finish. Similarly, natural stone tiles should be chosen based on the thickness and finish that is appropriate for the substrate. Thinner stone tiles can be used on concrete bases, while thicker stones should be fixed on a mortar bed. Etched finishes can also provide increased slip resistance on natural stone tiles.

It is generally a good idea to match the colour of the grout to the main colour of the tile to minimize its appearance. However, there are exceptions where you may want to use a contrasting grout colour to create a feature or highlight traditional tile patterns. Another factor to consider is the type of grout you use. Traditional cement-based grouts are durable but may fade over time, while epoxy grouts are more resistant to fading, retain their colour longer, and are waterproof, making them ideal for high traffic and wet areas. Ultimately, the decision of what colour and type of grout to use will depend on your personal preference and the specific needs of your project.

For regular maintenance, it is best to use a high-quality pH-neutral cleaner, which is safe for use on all types of porcelain, ceramic, and natural stone tiles. To deep clean your floor, you can use an alkaline-based cleaning product, which can remove old wax treatments and stubborn stains and is suitable for basic cleaning on unpolished natural stones. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions when using any cleaning product to ensure that it is used safely and effectively.

Porous tiles, such as all of our natural stone materials (including floor tiles, wall tiles, and feature mosaics), will need to be sealed to protect them. In addition to natural stone, crackle-glazed ceramic wall tiles and some polished porcelain tiles may also benefit from a protective sealant. Sealing these types of tiles helps to prevent stains, make them easier to clean, and extend their lifespan. In some cases, anti-slip/exterior finishes on porcelain tiles can also benefit from a protective barrier.

There are two different methods of achieving a finished and sealed terracotta tile. A liquid sealant method gives a more natural look, where as a boiled linseed oil and wax method provides a more traditional feel.

Liquid sealant method:

1) Before grouting your terracotta tiles, it is recommended to clean them with an acid-based cleaning product called File Deterdek to remove any building or adhesive residue.

2) After the tiles have been cleaned and no salts or adhesive residue remain, use a pre-grouting impregnator called Fila PRW200, applying it with a flat paintbrush, fully saturating the surface. Allow the impregnator to dry for 24 hours.

3) Once the impregnator is dry, you can grout the terracotta tiles. Be sure to remove as much grout residue as possible with clean water and let the grout set for 24 hours.

4) After the grout has set, use Fila Deterdek with a light abrasive emulsifying sponge or white nylon bristle brush to remove any remaining grout residue. Ensure to wash and sponge away any excess liquid with a bucket of clean water.

5) Once the terracotta tiles are completely dry, seal them with two coats of Fila MP90 or Fila W68. Use a flat paintbrush or roller to apply the sealer, wait 15 minutes, and apply a second coat. Fully saturate the surface with each coat. Allow the product to be absorbed into the terracotta without trying to work it in. Use a damp, wrung-out cloth to remove any excess.

Boiled Linseed Oil and Wax Method:

1)Start by cleaning the terracotta tiles thoroughly with a mild detergent and warm water to remove any dirt or grime.

2) Once the tiles are clean and dry, apply a coat of boiled linseed oil to the surface using a paintbrush or roller. Be sure to cover the entire surface and work the oil into the pores of the terracotta.

3) Allow the oil to dry completely, typically overnight, before applying a second coat.

4) Once the second coat of oil is dry, apply a coat of wax to the surface using a clean, soft cloth. Be sure to work the wax into the surface of the terracotta, covering the entire surface.

5) Allow the wax to dry for about 20 minutes, then buff the surface with a clean, soft cloth to a shine.

6) If you desire to add more shine you can repeat step 4 and step 5

7) To maintain the seal, you can reapply wax as necessary and avoid using acidic or abrasive cleaners on the waxed terracotta tiles.

Note: It is always recommended to test the product first on a small area or inconspicuous area to see the final result, different types of terracotta may react differently.

A 20-kilogram bag of tile adhesive typically covers an area of 3 to 5 square meters, depending on the surface being tiled. As a general guideline, a 20-kilogram bag will cover:

- 5 square meters when installing an anti-fracture membrane, waterproofing membrane, or tile backer board.
- 4 square meters when installing tiles on old concrete, surface levelled or wall surfaces.
- 3 square meters when installing tiles on an anti-fracture membrane.

The choice between standard and fast-set tile adhesive depends on a variety of factors, including the type of tile, the surface being tiled, and the conditions in which the tiling is being done.

Standard tile adhesive is a good choice for most tile installations, as it provides a strong bond and allows for some flexibility in the tile positioning. It's also suitable for large format tiles and porcelain. Typically standard setting adhesives are used for wall tiling where you might need a bit more time to work.

Fast-set tile adhesive, as the name implies, sets quickly and can be used when time is of the essence, or if the conditions are such that the tile must be set in a short period of time. Also, this type of adhesive can be used in extreme weather conditions where the standard adhesive may not set properly. However, they are often not suitable for large format tile (larger than 600x600mm) unless specified by the manufacturer or combined with additives to increase the flexibility.

Don't hesitate to contact us for advice on selecting the appropriate and cost-efficient tile adhesive for your project.

All tiles are produced by firing a clay. During this heating and cooling process, tiles will start to form some deviation over the surface. This is called bowing. The accepted EU standard for bowing is 0.5% over a given length. This does mean the centre of a tile edge can be higher than the corners. For example a 600mm edge can be 3mm higher in the centre than at the corners. This will create a high spot and low spot a the point of the brick bond joint.

Due to this nature of tile manufacturing, it is typically not recommended to overlap the grout joints and brick bond larger format tiles. If clients do want to overlap this joint, it is recommended to only overlap by 1/3 of the tile lengths and use a clip levelling system to minimise any impact.

Clip or tile levelling systems are used to help "bend" and "flex" a tile to ensure the edges and grout joints are aligned during installation. It acts as both a spacer and a method of levelling the tile surface. All tiles are subject to a deviation across their surface of 0.5% of the edge length, plus there is some inherent flexibility of the tile which can cause the tile to deform under force (either by the fitter or through shrinking of adhesive).

These levelling system are used for any tile installation (but more typically were lengths are 800mm or greater), and is a method of flexing the tile corners and centres to level the surface of the tile installation.